If you’re in the market for a used 6.1 Hemi-powered vehicle and would like to know what the maximum mileage and life expectancy is then you’ve come to the right place. The 6.1 Hemi is a robust engine and very well built with lots of room for future modifications. This article will discuss the life expectancy of the 6.1 Hemi engine and what kind of reliability you can expect.
The Hemi 6.1 Engine is a reliable, well-built engine that can deliver high mileage in excess of 250 000 miles, with regular services and maintenance.
The Hemi 6.1 engine was based on the 5.7-liter engine but after being put on a strict diet. It was a much lighter engine, thanks to a forged micro-alloy steel crankshaft, lighter pistons, cast-aluminum alloy cylinder head, and stronger connecting rods. They also did away with the MDS. The 6.1 Hemi plays in the HSV and FPV territory and matches it in terms of technology, sophistication, and performance, and has a high street-cred image.
Let’s look more into its daily driving and ownership characteristics.
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6.1 Hemi Reliability
The Hemi engine is great for city traffic and doing the usual town run. It can be a bit thirsty getting only 13-15 mpg around town but 18-20mpg on a steady run. Driving a 425bhp vehicle as a daily will bring a huge smile to anyone’s face. The 6.1 enjoys guzzling down premium fuel and tends to be more thirsty than the likes of the Mustang and Camaro 5.7L.
It is highly recommended to exercise caution regarding LPG conversions. The engine relies heavily on good upper cylinder lubrication, to avoid valve seat regression, hence the requirement for premium fuel exclusively. Then again when it comes to heavy muscle cars, fuel efficiency shouldn’t really be your main concern.
Unfortunately, nothing in this world can last forever – it just wouldn’t spin right. So let’s look at some of the 6.1 Hemi known issues.
6.1 Hemi Reliability (ALL KNOWN ISSUES)
The 6.1 was born from the 5.7 Hemi and was used in a few Mopar applications such as the Jeep, Chrysler, and Dodge vehicles in the SRT-8 trim line of the following vehicles:
- Chrysler 300C
- Dodge Challenger
- Dodge Charger
- Jeep WHI Grand Cherokee
6.1 Hemi Known Issues
Some of the known issues of the 6.1 Hemi include
- Lifter roller fail – Cam lobe failure (MDS more prone on 5.7 Hemi but also reported on certain 6.1 and 6.4)
- Lifter bearing seized up and the roller wouldn’t roll causing a loud ticking noise
- No Misfire codes, no running or performance problems, No Check engine lights
- Can fail From as low as 60-80k miles
- Is regarded as a “Know issue”
- DIY Fix – Fit hellcat lifter and delete the MDS
- Front Suspension bushes, ball joints, and struts premature wear.
Let’s see what some 6.1 Hemi Owners have to say.
Owners Feedback (Hemi 6.1)
I run a Dodge Challenger SRT 8 as a daily which is basically the same car just different body and it will tick all the boxes, great in traffic, around town and on a run, bit thirsty around town circa 13-15 mpg but 20mpg on a steady run, what it will give you is lots of smiles as 425bhp in a daily is fun, I do around 20k a year in mine and had it nearly 3 years, all ive done is filters and oil engine wise and usual tyres brakes ect but im very happy, they do go through ball joints and bushes though. But pound for pound you cant beat them and most likely you will sell it for what you pay for it as they kinda stay where they are value wise once they’ve done their initial drop.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1561383
I ran a US spec car (in US) for 3 years and absolutely enjoyed every day of ownership of that car. It’s a proper 5 seat missile.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1561383
The engine is a gem, though as stated, has a voracious appetite for premium fuel – and no MDS cylinder deactivation, like it’s replacement 392 version (in auto cars).
The NAG/5G-Tronic transmission is very robust, but needs to be livened-up a bit, with the addition of a Diablosport Predator flash tuner.
The only problems I encountered in around 60,000 miles, were a front strut seal failure (expensive – new strut was nearly $1000) and a transmission control unit, which was replaced under warranty. Otherwise just oil, filters, pads and tires.
In addition to the tuner, I added a Zoomer front to back exhaust system and Strange Engineering half-shafts (I bracket raced the car and the stock half shafts were the drive-line weak link). Mine ran very consistent low 12 sec quarters, not bad for an otherwise quite stock 4300lb car.
I would thoroughly recommend – with one word of caution. Road salt can be a problem, regarding the brakes. A lot of northern US/Canadian cars develop a fault where the plating on the brake pistons gets corroded by salt and causes (particularly the fronts) to start leaking – leading to an expensive rebuild. The stock wheels are also prone to salt corrosion damage (superficial, but unsightly).
I’m pushing 150k on my charger, so I can tell you the reasons I wouldn’t buy my car now. The front suspension is worn and noisy, I’ve replaced everything in there at least once before, it just doesn’t last. The real issue, that I may not be able to get over, is rust. I have bubble over the windshield, at the seam between the rear bumper and quarter panel, a little around the gas fill door, and an actual hole in the floor board. I feel like the hole is from salty snow feet getting that **** in the driver’s foot well, then rotting from the inside out. I’ve done a lot of work on my car, and still really like it. It’s fast, loud, big enough to haul the whole family around, and I still think the 1st gen chargers look the best. Check the underside for rust, check the trans fluid for color and smell, and do a leak down test if you can. I would think that if all that checks out, and you are getting a good vibe from the seller,….do it.https://www.lxforums.com/board/the-srt-8-6-1l-and-6-4l-v8-/403155-mileage-6-1-a.html
198K kms on mine now and I’d still buy one with high mileage if I needed to. Front suspensions are a known issue across the entire Lx platform, not just SRT’s. Engine is strong and as long as it’s been looked after, not too much to worry about. Definitely check every knook for rust, especially on each side of cats. I’ve heard of frame rails rusting though at that location if car spends a lot of time idling – not sure why or how that works. Keep in mind that car is 11 years old so chances of it being totally rust free are slim, unless you are in a favorable climate. If the engine is quiet, it shifts well up and down, oil pressure is good at idle (24-27 PSI when engine warm at idle), no dash lights triggered, the ride is good at time of purchase, minimal rust and it passes whatever safety exam is required, and if the price is attractive, I’d go for it. Check if airbag recalls have been done and ask for all maintenance receipts. Good hunting!https://www.lxforums.com/board/the-srt-8-6-1l-and-6-4l-v8-/403155-mileage-6-1-a.html
There you have it, straight from the owner’s mouth.
6.1 Hemi Specifications
The 6.1-liter HEMI is no slouch when it comes to delivering ponies with 425 horsepower on tap at 4,800 RPM. This is what you call a serious “muscle car”. It dominated the scene from 2006 with its only competition at the time being the 4.6L Ford Mustang GT. The 6.1 HEMI would still wax it by an additional 125HP over the Ford Mustang’s 300 @4,250 rpm.
6.1 Hemi Upgrades
The SRT8 Challengers are void of VCT and MDS making them prime candidates for modifications.
- The Upgraded lighter weight 6.1 Hemi is a reliable engine up to a 35 percent power increase.
- Compared to the 5.7L the con rods on the 6.1 are stronger and thicker with stronger bolts. However, they are still borderline once the power goes over 700 hp.
- Hemi 6.1 caps have the same problems as the 5.7 even with the reinforced bulkheads and 3.5mm-thicker cylinder walls. The 6.1 is good for up to 1,800 crank hp with the stock stroke; and up to 1,400 hp with 4-inch (or more) strokes.
Any engine, however reliable they are, relies 100% on regular maintenance to produce the best results over a long period. There are a few additional things you can do to your Hemi engine to get the most out of it.
- Carry out the scheduled oil changes on time
- Use only the quality oils and lubricants available
- Use a decent oil filter (Do not cheaper here)
- Replace the air filter regularly
- Regularly inspect the brake pads and replace timeously
- Check and replace transmission fluids timeously
- Replace axle fluids timeously
- Check and replace suspension bushes and ball joints timeously